mǎn/telos: Xiangyunsha Silk or Gambiered Silk

Overview:

A dyeing process that is rooted in the province of Guangdong stems from a style of fabric dyeing which primarily uses silks. This technique is called the Gambiered Silk process or Xiangyunsha or also “Soft Gold.” Recently this process caught my eye because of the pleasantness the fabric gives to my eyes. In this process, mud from the local Xi River and the Rong river as well. These rivers are the mordant behind the technical, and beautiful dyeing process. The coating process behind Gambiered Silk is actually nationally recognized and included into the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List of China as well. The process actually needs a specific amount of iron to be effective, and to achieve the correct coloration of the silk. In the end the fabric becomes a waterproof, glistering, stout, and featherlike fabric.

The Process:

The process of Gambiered Guangdong Silk uses local river water, and extract from the Ju-liang root. The mud that is selected for this process is chosen by two elders of this ancient craft. They know which mud is correct by their eyes. But sometimes their eyes deceive them. Recently the craft has been declining because of the amount of mud that is available that is deemed correct, as well as the little that is scientifically known about the correct mud that is needed. This process is actually really environmentally friendly. This process does not produce any chemical reagents which are metal mordant. After the process is entirely done, the color black is prevalent on the side where the fabric was placed in mud, and red is apparent on the opposite side.

A bit of history:

Guangdong province is one of the biggest maritime trading cities in China. Sitting in the south east of China, the city of Guangzhou writhes in power and glory in the grand scheme of maritime trading. This city was a powerhouse in the trading of silks, and brought lots of business to the coastal region of China. The time where the maritime trade was at its peak was during the Song (960-1279) and Yuan (1271-1368) dynasties. This trading route brought lots of Granier Silk out of China. Where it reached the likes of France, England, India, and other nations that were a part of the silk road. Arab traders actually build small outposts in Guangzhou to help facilitate trade in the region. The Grainier Silk is a highly desirable lightweight fabric that dates back all the way to the 5th century. This made Guangzhou a very diverse place to live, with many different religions. The first ever mosque in China was actually erected in Guangzhou. The lighthouse mosque. Portuguese was also used in China until the 18th century specifically in Guangzhou because no other city that was on the coast could trade with foreigners. This made Guangzhou one of the biggest trading hubs in the world, with a culture galore in this city.

Here is a video that covers the process:

Gambiered Guangdong silk | Gambiered Guangdong silk also known as Heijiao Chou, has a history of at least 500 years. Its old-fashioned manufacturing process requires up to six... | By CCTV | Facebook

Location of Guangdong, and Guangzhou: